Alpha Hydroxy Acid Skincare | AHAs, Lactic and Glycolic Acid Exfoliation for Acne, Wrinkles, Age Spots

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Skincare

You've probably heard about alpha hydroxy acids or AHAs. AHAs basically act as exfoliants. In other words, they speed up the process of shedding the uppermost layer of skin cells. How much exfoliation will you get? Well, that depends on the type and concentration of the AHA, plus its pH (acidity), and other ingredients in the product. Most of the consumer cosmetics you find over-the-counter contain AHAs at levels of 2 to 10 percent.

AHAs can be useful in a variety of skin conditions. For example, they can be useful against acne, because they can keep pores from becoming blocked. You can read more about AHAs and acne.

If you have mature skin, you should be careful when you exfoliate, as this can irritate the skin if you're not careful. But, done correctly, exfoliation can help make the skin look better and give you younger looking skin. You can read more about AHAs and aging skin.

If you have dry skin, AHAs can help to get rid of the upper dead skin cells which give skin a flaky appearance. You can read more about AHAs and dry skin.

For oily skin, AHAs can help keep pores from clogging. You can read more about AHAs and oily skin.

To find out if a cosmetic, lotion or cream contains an AHA, look on the list of ingredients. AHA ingredients may be listed as:

• glycolic acid - very popular
• lactic acid - also very popular
• malic acid
• citric acid
• mixed fruit acid
• triple fruit acid
• sugar cane extract

Other ways they can be listed include:

• glycolic acid + ammonium glycolate
• alpha-hydroxyethanoic acid + ammonium alpha-hydroxyethanoate
• alpha-hydroxyoctanoic acid
• alpha-hydroxycaprylic acid
• hydroxycaprylic acid
• tri-alpha hydroxy fruit acids
• alpha hydroxy and botanical complex
• L-alpha hydroxy acid
• glycomer in crosslinked fatty acids alpha nutrium (three AHAs)

Of these, Food and Drug Administration (FDA) says the most frequently used in cosmetics are glycolic acid and lactic acid.

Products with AHAs are marketed for a variety of things:

• to reduce the appearance of wrinkles
• to even out skin texture and tone
• to unblock and cleanse pores
• to improve oily skin
• to improve acne
• to improve skin condition in general

It is important to follow the use instructions on the label. Do not exceed the recommended applications. Make sure you test any product on a small area of skin to see if it causes irritation, and if it does, don't use the product.

AHAs may make users more sensitive to sunlight and especially to the ultraviolet (UV) radiation component of sunlight. UV exposure can damage the skin and at high doses, especially over a long period, can cause skin cancer. That's why sun protection is essential if you are using AHA lotions or AHA creams on your skin. Use a good sunscreen or wear sun protective clothing and hats to protect your skin from sunburn. FDA says it is important to use sun protection, including a sun screen, if you use an AHA product, even if you haven't used the product that day. If you use the AHA at bedtime, be sure to apply an additional sunscreen in the morning before going into the sun.

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Updated September 2008

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