Acne-Prone Skin Exfoliation Products and Treatments | Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Retin-A (Tretinoin)

Acne and Skin Exfoliation

If you have acne, you may have considered exfoliation. Basically, to exfoliate your skin means to speed up the process of shedding or sloughing off the upper layers of dead skin cells. Your skin is always pushing dead cells to the surface, basically renewing itself from the inside. These dead cells can sometimes result in a flaky appearance. They can also clog pores, which can lead to acne, pimples, blackheads, whiteheads and even cysts.

Acne exfoliating products or peels can contain different ingredients. There can be exfoliating granules, as there are in the Proactive acne treatment system. Or there can be chemical exfoliants. Two common examples of the latter are salicylic acids - which is a beta-hydroxy acid (or BHA) - and alpha-hydroxy acid (or AHA). Some studies have shown that peels using BHA had slightly fewer side effects and results that lasted a bit longer than did peels using AHA. But overall, both types of treatments seem to be similarly effective in reducing acne lesions. In one study, alpha-hydroxy acid was applied to one side of the face and beta-hydroxy acid to the other side. Neither the patient nor the person who later evaluated them were aware which side of the face had been treated with which acid. The study found that both types of chemical peels significantly reduced acne lesions within two weeks of the first treatment, and patients continued to see a reduction in lesions through the first follow-up visit a month after the treatments had finished.

When you exfoliate skin, you're speeding up a natural process. On your body (for example for acne on your chest, or for what's called bacne - back acne - on your back), you can exfoliate with a loofah sponge, or a brush. For your face (acne vulgaris- the medical term for common facial acne), there are also exfoliating creams and lotions available. Some contain fine grains that do the exfoliation. There are also lotions that use a mild acid to peel the skin. Using such lotions is sometimes called microdermabrasion. The lotions can also be known as chemical peels. Retinoids, such as Retin-A and Renova, can also cause the upper layers of dead skin to shed more quickly.

If you have any skin conditions like acne, always talk to your doctor before starting any new procedure. It's also important to start slowly, testing any new procedure on a small patch of skin to make sure you're not overly sensitive.

How to exfoliate skin

If you have acne, exfoliation can help make the skin look better. But be careful not to overdo it, as this can only increase the amount of oil that your skin produces, and that will make the acne worse. If you are exfoliating the skin on your body, using a glove, sponge or loofah, you would first wet your skin. Then, gently rub the brush, sponge or loofah over the area of your body being exfoliated. Again, go gently so you don't irritate the skin. If you are exfoliating the skin on your face, there are special pads which are not as rough as a loofah.

If you are using a cream or lotion that contains exfoliating grains, you would also first wet your skin, then apply the exfoliating cream or lotion to the skin and rub with gently circular motions. Be very careful to avoid sensitive areas of the skin.

If you are using Retin-A, or if you're using a lotion containing alpha hydroxy acid or salicylic acid for your acne, follow the directions on the bottle. In general, you would first gently clean your skin, and then apply the lotion.

After exfoliating, rinse the skin, and then apply a good moisturizer. If you are exfoliating the skin on your face, make sure you use a product designed for facial tissue.

It's important to avoid over exfoliating the skin, as this can cause it to dry out, or become red and irritated. Remember too that after exfoliating your skin - especially if you use a product with tretinoin or AHAs - you may become more vulnerable to sunburn, so make sure you use sun protection such as sunscreen or sun protective clothing.

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Updated June 2009

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